“Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy.”

View as we walked down Hradcany
View of Prague on the way down from Hradcany
Panorama of Old Town Square

After our adventures up at Hradcany, AN and I wandered back into Old Town to explore the buildings there, including the building where Franz Kafka’s father kept a shop. We also saw the Kafka statue near the Old Town Square.

Church of Our Lady before Týn through the Old Town Square
Another view of Old Town Square
Old Town Square with Jan Hus monument on the left and Church of Our Lady before Týn in the center.
Church of St. Michael in Old Town Square
Franz Kafka’s father had a haberdashery shop in this buidling
Cobblestones are slippery. Just sayin’

Franz Kafka, the famous author of The Metamorphosis and The Trial, was born in 1883 and raised in Prague in a middle-class, German-speaking Jewish family.  He trained as a lawyer but worked for an insurance company while writing on the side. His books explore absurdity as only someone intimately acquainted with bureaucracy can understand and describe. Unfortunately, Kafka received very little recognition for his works, most of which were not even published until after his death by tuberculosis in 1924. His contributions are now honored by the people of Prague with a statue near the Old Town Square.

AN in front of the Kafka statue
The inscription on this statue reads, “He fights for freedom, one of freedom’s sons, lone in his aery sphere of blue and bronze” William Kean Seymour 1887-1975
Statue set in the wall next to the stairs down from Hradcany
Prašná brána or Powder Tower is one of the original 13 gates into the city, from the 11th century. It was restored in the late 19th century.
Monument to World War II in Prague

While in Prague, we also tried some trdelník, a traditional Slovak pastry. They wrap the dough (which is yeastier than you’re expecting) around a pole and cook it over open coals. They will then add cinnamon or chocolate (usually Nutella) for a little extra. We tried the regular sugared trdelník and both liked it.

Trdelník being cooked over coals

AN and I took a bus from Prague back to Vienna after our adventures in Prague. It’s cheap and easy to catch a bus in central Europe from city to city, and the bus depots are usually centrally located. In fact, both buses we took on this adventure ended up being nearly empty. Trains are convenient as well but tend to be more expensive.

Relief outside the bus depot in Prague
Delicate sculpture suspended over a street in Prague

Title quote: Franz Kafka


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